The oldest of Morocco’s Imperial capitals is not only the most complete Islamic city in the Arab world, it also has two medinas, Fes el-Bali and Fez el-Jedid. Fez el-Bali is the ultimate medina, designated a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1981. The maze of streets and alleys, some less than 60 cm (2 feet) wide, is confusing at first, but it’s a great place to get lost, and there are magnificent sights around every corner. To understand the city’s complicated layout it’s best to start with a panormaic overview, especially from the terrace near the crumbling Merinid Tombs or from the Borj Nord fortress, both on a hill just outside the medina. Don’t miss the view of the tanneries (beware of the smell) and the Mellah (Jewish quarter).